This new video is a spot-on parody of the fashion videos I love so much, but it’s also a great way to show off the really cute clothes in Vena Cava’s new line.
The 1995 duet “Who the Hell is Sonia Rykiel” with the legendary, late, Malcolm McLaren, is a nice soundtrack for this post.
Born in 1930 in Paris, Sonia was a window dresser as a teen and later married the owner of a dress boutique. When she could not find soft, comfortable sweaters to wear during her second pregnancy, she collaborated with one of her husband’s suppliers to create soft, form-fitting sweaters for herself. They were popular enough that she began selling them in her husband’s boutique. By 1967 her ‘Poor Boy’ sweater was world famous and she was named by the American press, ‘The Queen of Knits’.
High, tight armholes and narrow shoulders are classic Poor Boy sweater features. Horizontal stripes have been, and continue to be, a hallmark of Rykiel’s work.
Her 2010 collection for H&M was a fun revival of the looks which had made her famous, decades before.
But, besides the Poor Boy and the horizontal stripe, Rykiel is best known for her graphic work with knits. It was she who first put seams on the outside of garments, and she who first used words and pictures as part of the knits she designed, an early example of which was a sweater bearing the word ‘SENSUOUS’, released in 1971 to much hullabaloo.
An informative timeline of her life and career may be found here.
A wonderful interview with Rykiel may be found here.
Thanks to the Vintage Vicar blog for posting!
Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli outdid themselves in my opinion.
This is what Spring looks like!
The entire collection may be viewed here.
Rudi Gernreich, arguably most famous for the topless swimsuits he launched in the 60s, was a driving force in the sartorial revolution of the 60s in the U.S.
I have read that Gernreich's topless suits launched the topless beach craze, though I have also read that the swimwear was not a commercial home run. Not so, his famous 'No Bra', which was a best seller from Day One.
It seems so mundane nowadays; a sheer bra with no wire or padding. At the time, it was nothing short of revolutionary. Bras before this were made to change the shape of a woman's breasts; not celebrate their natural shape.
But Gernreich also designed more than swimwear and underwear.
More of Gernreich's creative work:
A quasi-famous video of Peggy Moffitt sporting Gernreich looks, filmed by Moffitt's husband, longtime collaborator of Gernreich's, photographer William Claxton, called 'Basic Black' is said to be the first fashion video.
Okay, so it’s been a rough day. And my fourth drink isn’t even touching the cloud over my head. So I camp out on Style.com and start looking at all the Spring 2013 RTW collections, hoping to see flowy, feminine dresses and separates that make me feel warm and pretty and happy inside.
Black leather and severe, architectural constructions which hide a woman’s body are not my idea of a warm happy Spring. And most of the collections I’m seeing so far are black leather and severe constructions.
This collection from Sachin & Babi is the prettiest I’ve seen so far, but I have to stop and ask:
Are they polishing these girls’ areolae?
My silly obsession with shiny nipples aside, these looks from the same collection are what a happy Spring looks like to me.
Maybe you’ve seen the famous Rabanne tunic from the Sixties.
The designer made a name for himself with these oddly appealing creations.
Rabanne collaborated with Jacques Fonteray to create the costumes for ‘Barabarella’ in 1968.
For more on Fonda’s ‘Barabarella’ costumes, go here.
Rabanne continued designing and running his brand into the 90s but sold to Puig in 2000.
As of June, 2012, the Creative Director for the brand was Lydia Maurer, though the brand changes designers so frequently that this may not be current information.
Clearly the young designers running the brand are determined to maintain some connection to Mr. Rabanne’s aesthetic, as these selections from the Paco Rabanne Spring 2013 RTW collection demonstrate.
Today’s lesson in fashion history features the exciting work of fashion illustrator, Antonio (aka Antonio Lopez).
Born 1943 (same year as my Dad), we lost him in 1987 to the same disease which took my best friend and an entire generation of some of the world’s finest artists, writers, comedians, dancers, friends, neighbors, brothers, dads, and friends. (Yes, I said ‘friends’ twice.)
As The Fashion Book says, “His work dominated fashion illustration for a decade, encouraging a discipline that had diminished throughout the 1950s.”
Paris in the 70s must have been a BLAST for Antonio and his friends; Grace Jones, Tina Chow, Karl Lagerfeld, and others.